This graceful and enchanting ballerina ring captures the elegance of dance in its design, featuring a central sapphire encircled by radiating diamonds; it mimics the swirl of a tutu. It was made by Oscar Heyman Brothers in New York around 1970. The ring features a near-round-cut sapphire, surrounded by a fluid arrangement of twenty tapered baguette-cut diamonds. Every element of this piece radiates quality— from the harmonious design and the exquisite choice of gemstones to the meticulous settings.
A Diamond and Sapphire Ballerina Ring
Ballerina
In the 1950s, Oscar Heyman introduced the iconic ballerina ring, so named for its resemblance to the graceful silhouette and movement of a ballerina’s tutu. The central gemstone is encircled by a halo of tapered baguette diamonds arranged in a radiating, flared design. Tapered baguette-cut diamonds are particularly suitable for this purpose, as they emanate from the centre and reflect light in linear flashes. Each hand-cut gemstone requires perfect shaping and precise setting to form an unbroken surround. Ballerina rings quickly became an essential addition to jewellery collections in the 1950s, coinciding with a trend for more extravagant cocktail rings.
The Heyman Brothers
Oscar Heyman is a renowned name in the world of fine jewellery. Founded in 1912 by Oscar Heyman and his brother Nathan, this family-run atelier has produced exquisite jewels for some of America’s most prestigious jewellery houses and collectors.
From the outset, the firm was a family enterprise. At the turn of the 20th century, Solomon and Asna Heyman and their nine children were living in the Baltic region of Latvia, then under Russian rule. With limited opportunities available for Jews in the region, they sent two sons Oscar and Nathan, to Kharkov in 1901. There they learned the art of working in platinum jewellery as apprentices at a workshop which, among other commissions, worked for the Houseof Peter Carl Fabergé, the Russiancourt jeweller. They were taught all aspects of jewellery production, including design, alloying precious metals, toolmaking, metalsmithing techniques, and stone-setting. When they emigrated from Latvia to New York in 1906, they brought with them their exceptional expertise, including advanced skills in working with platinum.
The Jewelers' Jeweler
In New York the brothers applied the business model they had observed in Kharkov: supplying high-quality jewellery to established houses with valued clientele. As a result, Oscar Heyman often operated discreetly, with many of
its creations being sold under the branding of prominent houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Udall & Ballou, Marcus & Company, Black, and Starr & Frost. Only discerning collectors could identify the characteristics of an Oscar Heyman creation: exceptional craftsmanship, thoughtfully chosen stones, and ingenious engineering. Hence the firm came to be known as “the jeweler’s jeweler.” Today, identifying a piece as an Oscar Heyman creation significantly enhances its appeal and value.
Patents
Oscar Heyman’s technical skills and insight also meant that new applications and technical improvements were always being sought. In February 1916, the company was granted the first of its six U.S. patents related to jewellery making. They included patents for moulds to make faster links for bracelets and necklaces; an innovative and more durable system to connect these links; a lightweight top-frame for gem-set bracelets and a new attachment system for double clips.
1970's Onwards
One of the most important Oscar Heyman accounts in the last three decades of the 20th century was Tiffany & Co. Other enduring clients included J.E. Caldwell and Van Cleef & Arpels, which initially relied on Oscar Heyman for the manufacture of jewellery with invisibly- set stones.
Marks
Marked with maker’s mark HB for Heyman Brothers and numbered 14019.
