The back of the pendant is equally detailed, with the buds of the branches also visible. The matching chain is composed of linear gold sections, enamelled in the same green as the pendant, connected by gold curb links. The accompanying box bears Lalique’s stamp.

Harbingers Of Spring

The first signs of spring can already be observed in winter. Next year’s buds have been formed long before the leaves of the autumn fall. This means that the leaves—and often the flowers—are already present throughout the winter, safely enclosed within buds that protect them from hail, snow, and frost. Some trees already start to show new life in November and December.

As winter draws to a close, the buds swell and begin to grow, a process influenced by rising temperatures and increasing light. On some branches, in addition to terminal buds, the lateral buds grow opposite each other, while on others they alternate from left to right, as in this pendant.

Lalique's Study of Branches

René Lalique is known to have returned frequently to his birthplace of Aÿ in the Champagne region of France, where he would spend hours wandering through vineyards, woods and fields, deeply immersed in nature. He observed and sketched what he saw. This profound love of nature is clearly evident in this pendant, which reflects his meticulous study and detailed analysis of plants and trees. His observation of all seasons is particularly apparent in Cinq études de rameaux et bourgeons de différentes essences: sycomore, chêne, frêne et une étude de tige de houblon (Five Studies of Branches and Buds from Different Species: Sycamore, Oak, Ash, and a Study of a Hop Stem), the drawing he created of budding nature at the end of winter.

The exact date of this drawing is unclear; the Musée d’Orsay, where it is now held, provides a very broad estimate, dating it between 1860 and 1945.

Ash Tree

On the right-hand side of René Lalique’s study, he depicted the frêne, the French term for Fraxinus excelsior, commonly known as the ash tree. It is highly likely that this pendant represents the ash tree in bud. Fraxinus excelsior, or common ash, is a deciduous tree native to Europe. This species is identifiable by its purple-black buds and is a fast grower, capable of reaching heights of up to 40 metres. Ash trees belong to the olive family, which also includes olive trees, forsythia, jasmine, privet, and lilac. Across the northern hemisphere, there are 49 species of ash. The word “ash” is derived from the Germanic word asker, meaning both “sharp” and “spear.” Historically, ash wood was the preferred material for making spears. In Germanic mythology, the ash tree plays a significant role: Askr and Embla, the first humans symbolising the ash and elm trees, were created from driftwood. From the ash tree, man was created, and from the elm, woman.

Jewellery Designer

Lalique began his career at a young age, showing an exceptional talent for drawing. He won first prize in a drawing competition held at the Hôtel Turgot in Paris when he was just twelve years old. By the age of sixteen, he had begun his apprenticeship with Louis Aucoc, a prominent Parisian jeweller. From 1878 to 1880, Lalique further honed his artistic skills at the Sydenham Art College in London. Upon returning to France, he worked for prestigious names such as Aucoc, Cartier and Boucheron.
In 1882, Lalique decided to work as an independent designer, creating jewellery for various clients. Four years later, he established his own workshop, eventually becoming one of the most influential jewellery designers of his era. Around 1890, he gained widespread recognition as a pioneer of French Art Nouveau, with avant-garde designs that were showcased in La Maison de l’Art Nouveau, Samuel Bing’s renowned gallery in Paris.

Iconic

The jewellery of René Lalique is now considered iconic within the Art Nouveau style. Lalique created many commissioned pieces, including works for the celebrated actress Sarah Bernhardt and his primary patron, the Anglo-Armenian industrialist Calouste Gulbenkian. Many of the unique pieces he crafted for Gulbenkian are now on display at the Gulbenkian Museum in Lisbon, Portugal.

Art Nouveau Jewellery

At the end of the nineteenth century, the aesthetics of jewellery underwent a radical evolution with the advent of Art Nouveau. This innovative artistic movement, driven by the exceptional spread of scientific knowledge, infused artisans with a new, invigorating creative energy. Art Nouveau jewellery is a true homage to nature and its wonders. Flora and fauna were depicted through flowers, plants, insects and other creatures in such things as brooches, combs, pendants and rings, where the value of the material used was secondary to the design. Stones, metals, horn and glass could be combined with materials of the utmost value, such as gold and diamonds.

Marks

Signed Lalique, and marked with the French control mark for 18-carat gold.