Animal brooches have existed throughout history, but in the 1960s they regained striking popularity. Playful in spirit and often luxuriously executed in gold and gemstones, they became true eye-catchers. This bird brooch is a fine example: clear in form, rich in contrast, and designed to be noticed.
This toucan brooch was created by the renowned Swiss jeweller Gübelin in the 1960s. The design unites four contrasting materials: coral for the curved beak, carved sapphires for the body, a brilliant-cut diamond for the eye, and eighteen-carat gold for the head, back and legs. The bird stands on a naturalistically rendered double branch. Thirteen carved sapphire cabochons, with a combined weight of approximately ten carats, form a continuous feathered surface across the breast. Their relief creates shadow, volume and a vibrant structure, demonstrating Gübelin’s technical mastery.
Gübelin
Gübelin originated from the watchmaking shop opened in Lucerne in 1854 by Mauritz Breitschmid. Eduard Jakob Gübelin, born in 1861, learned the trade with Breitschmid and married his daughter Bertha Sophia in 1886. In that same year he became a business partner. The company grew steadily and, alongside watches, began producing jewellery for a discerning clientele. In the 1920s Gübelin opened its own jewellery workshop and established a gemmological laboratory to test and authenticate gemstones, bringing design, craftsmanship and scientific evaluation into close proximity.
Later initiatives — including the Gübelin Gem Lab in Hong Kong, the Gübelin Academy, and Provenance Proof — reflect a long-standing philosophy centred on gemstones and knowledge. The company has remained in family ownership since its foundationy.
Carved Sapphires
At the beginning of the twentieth century, interest in Indian and Mughal jewellery emerged in Europe, where carved gemstones played a prominent role. In 1901 Queen Alexandra of England commissioned a necklace in Indian style to wear with her Indian gowns, an early sign of this growing fascination. In 1911 Jacques Cartier made his first journey to India, where he became captivated by the vivid colours and traditional cutting techniques of the jewels worn by Indian royalty. He returned with numerous carved gemstones, whose geometric lines and vivid colours harmonised with the emerging Art Deco style. Jewellery houses such as Cartier, Chaumet and Mauboussin adapted Indian motifs — flowers, leaves and berries — into modern designs, often combining carved coloured stones with diamonds, rock crystal and platinum. Cartier in particular developed the highly recognisable “Hindou” style, later known as “Tutti Frutti”, characterised by abundant use of carved rubies, emeralds and sapphires. Indian maharajas, who travelled to Paris to have their gemstones reset in Western fashions, further promoted this trend.In this Gübelin brooch from the 1960s, carving is central to the design. The sapphires give the body sculptural volume, while the coral beak adds warmth and organic contrast. The sparkling diamond eye brings the bird’s expression to life.
Toucan
With its large curved beak, the brooch most closely resembles a toucan, a bird native to Central and South America. Its clear silhouette ensures immediate recognisability, while closer inspection reveals Gübelin’s high level of craftsmanship.
Animal Jewellery in the '50s and '60s
Jewellery of the mid-twentieth century reflected post-war optimism and growing prosperity. Formal receptions gave way to cocktail parties, while creativity and individuality became defining values. The jewellery of the period mirrored social change. Glamour prevailed in a wide range of styles, from lavish diamond pieces to colourful, cheerful and whimsical designs.
Animal motifs in particular, long present in jewellery, acquired an amusing character in the 1960s. Van Cleef & Arpels led the way with witty, gem-set menageries — executed in gold and adorned with precious and semi-precious stones. Soon other major houses followed.This brooch demonstrates that the trend was not confined to France alone. In Switzerland, too, Gübelin succeeded in capturing the spirit of the age with this powerful toucan.
